0
0
Jon is a massive fan of the Da Vinci Code and Angels & Demons films based on the Dan Brown Books. He’s not a fan of Paris, so haven’t retraced the Rose Line or visited the sights featured in the Da Vinci Code there. However, Rosslyn Chapel, where the Da Vinci Code film ends is just south of Edinburgh was within striking distance from Lucker Hall.
It would also be the first time Callum would the border into Scotland properly.
We had prebooked a 10.30am slot at Rosslyn so needed to leave at 8am to get there in time, with a little time buffer. Rather than take the A1, we headed cross-country via the A697. It would take slightly longer but hopefully a little more scenic. At times we had the road to ourselves. Some very straight sections so we thought it was a former Roman Road. Looking up, this road takes in stretches of the 55-mile long Roman road known as the Devil’s Causeway.
We crossed the River Tweed and ventured into Scotland at Coldstream (home of the Coldstream Guards). There was a sign for the regimental museum so we planned to stop on our way back through. The next village we passed through, Greenlaw, made us double-take, The River Blackadder flows through the town.
We parked up at Rosslyn Chapel about 9.45am – just a short delay as we skirted around Edinbugh. A very warm welcome from the ladies on reception. As it was quite quiet, we were told we could go straight through. If you think the outside of the chapel is ornate, the inside is simply stunning. We wandered around the outside of the chapel … it started to rain so took the opportunity to go inside. You are not permitted to take photos inside – a shame, but you can see why.
The roof features the crosses from the St Clair family arms. Small carved figures adorn the inside of the chapel. Two columns near the alter – one is the apprentice Column and is incredibly ornate with vines spiralling up the pillar. At the bottom are eight dragons and at the top, various flowers/plants.
According to lore that dates back to the mid-17th century, the chapel’s Master Mason traveled abroad for inspiration to carve this final, crucial pillar. In his absence, his young apprentice had a dream detailing an exquisite design and carved it himself. Upon returning, the Master Mason was so consumed with jealousy upon seeing the magnificent column that he struck the apprentice on the head with a mallet, killing him. As punishment, the Master Mason was executed, and fellow masons carved his face into a nearby wall—forced to forever gaze upon the apprentice’s masterpiece.
Throughout the chapel it is said there are more then 100 Green Man icons. Above the altar, there are many boxes protruding from the arcs on the ceiling. Each one has a different pattern. It is thought they were some form of code, perhaps making up a musical script but no-one has ever been able to solve it.
Once we had looked around, we headed back into the visitor centre. We had a coffee and the most ginormous scone we have seen and eaten. Really nice.
It was time to retrace our drive back to England as there were several interesting sites we were hoping to stop at. We found a parking space in Greenslaw so decided to get some photos. Everything had been renamed Blackadder – perhaps changed after the popularity of Rowan Atkinson’s hot comedy, Blackadder! Blackadder Stores, The Blackadder pub. All complete with the little iconic snake!
Back into the car and we decided to head to Coldstream and visit the regimental museum. We managed to park in the square by the museum entrance and walked over. Gates closed. Jon then read the sign that said Closed on Tuesdays!! Oh well.
Continuing the history theme, we headed over the Battle of Flodden memorial in the village of Branxton. It was very quiet and no-one else around. The memorial stands on the hill where the English troops assembled. On the hills opposite, the Scottish Forces, led by King James IV of Scotland. In the battle that followed, over 10,000 Scottish soldiers including the King himself and 4,000 English soldiers were killed. The memorial recognises all soldiers that lost their lives in this battle. The area was incredibly peaceful with birds tweeting – hard to imagine the battle horrors of over 500 years ago.
Heading out of Flodden we spotted the World’s Smallest Visitor Centre – set up in an old red telephone box.
From here, we headed over to Etal – first stop was the The Black Bull – the only thatched pub in all of Northumberland. Two Pepsis and a lemonade and we were sorted.
At the end of the street you could see Etal Castle. Jon moved the car over to the castle car park as rain looked to be coming in whilst Callum and I walked over. All really that was left was the ruined gatehouse and keep. It would have been impressive back in the day.
Another building had been built into the ruined walls of the castle. One section was a private residence, the other housed the Cider making facility. It had started to rain and Callum turned down Jon’s suggestion that he tries some local cider.
We thought the rain would blow over to headed over to the nearby Norham Castle. However, we parked up in the car park and the rain just got heavier and heavier. It seemed to be set in for the afternoon so we headed back to the cottage.
We booked a table at the nearby White Swan Inn Restaurant for dinner tonight. It was in the next village across, about 5 minutes drive away.
It was pretty quiet when we arrived but the restaurant quickly filled up. The small bar area was full.
The food was really good and the service was good. All the staff covered all the tables and were amazing how the three of them were speed walking around the restaurant!
Starters were Pigeon (Callum), Hot Ham Terrine (Karen) and Fishcakes (Jon)
Mains: Chicken Supreme Risotto (Callum), Lamb Rump with mini Shepherds Pie (Karen) and Monkfish Curry (Jon)
Puddings; Calum and I went for the Sticky Toffee Pudding whilst Jon went for the Brownie with Ice Cream.
